Powdery Mildew on Crepe Myrtle

Recognizing Powdery Mildew

As the name implies, powdery mildew looks like powdery splotches of white or gray powder on the leaves and stems of plants. Even though there are  several types of this fungi, they all look basically the same.

When you do finally notice powdery mildew it is usually on the top surfaces of the leaves.  Up on closer examination you may see the powdery looking fungus also on the stems, flowers, buds and even the fruit on the infected plant.

Although powdery mildew is unattractive, it is rarely fatal. It does stress the plant and severe or repetitive infections will weaken the plant. If enough of the leaf surface becomes covered with powdery mildew it will usually fall off prematurely.

The real harm to your Oklahoma plants occur when the powdery mildew effects the photosynthesis of the plant.  Edible crops with  insufficient photosynthesis will suffer from  diminished flavor in the fruit or vegetable. If buds become infected,like on Oklahoma Crepe Myrtle or your roses they may not open and mature at all.

Squash infected with Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew Is Host Specific 

This is probably the only positive thing about  powdery mildew. Host specific means that is will not spread from your roses to your Crepe Myrtle however, all powdery mildews favor the same conditions.

What Causes Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew fungi overwinters in plant debris and begin producing spores in the spring (another reason to clean out those beds).  The spores can be introduced to your plants by wind, insects or splashing water.

Conditions that encourage the growth and spread of powdery mildew include:

• Dampness or high humidity (Not common during rainy seasons or in extreme heat)
• Crowded plantings
• Poor air circulation

Treatment for Powdery Mildew 

I use it, it works and it is not toxic! PLANT WASH

You will also find chemical treatments available in local stores.  Be sure the product is used in the treatment of Powdery Mildew.  This can be found by reading the label of the product you are considering purchasing.  Also make note of recommend applications. More is never good with chemicals and often hurts the plant.

I would also recommend cleaning out the debris from your gardens along with following recommended planting procedures and locations when putting in plants.

You can also want to remove the infected parts. If you do remove these parts do not compost them but bag and place in a trash receptacle.  Why, because powdery mildew is a fungus and has spores. Plus, whatever tool you use to remove the infected parts should be cleaned thoroughly and have the blades wiped down with a disinfectant.

Do not forget to feed and water the birds!

Morning Doves mate for life and are without a doubt one of the worst nest builders around.  You can only hope the Oklahoma wind does not blow the eggs out.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Sharing my gardening interests with others is not only enjoyable but allows me to share with others what I have learned. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs or horses, play sports, or own a small business…. consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

Based upon the type of turf you are using for your Oklahoma lawn you will find your annual fertilization schedule.  Prior to fertilizing, I encourage you to have a soil test done every 2 to 3 years.  This way you will know the right fertilizer bag to buy based upon the numbers on the bag..ie 10-5-10, 32-0-10, etc. See article on Oklahoma Soil Test 

If you follow this fertilization regiment, you should find yourself with a beautiful and healthy Oklahoma lawn. Remember to water adequately and apply the fertilizer evenly.

I encourage you not to bag your grass but to put a mulching blade on your mower and leave the clippings  on your lawn as it will put nitrogen back into the lawn. Also, by not bagging your grass clippings, you wont have to buy trash sacks any more to put them in. Plus, it is a whole lot easier to mow without the mower being weighted down by the grass clippings.

Example of unevenly applied fertilizer which was probably done with a drop spreader.  You may find using a broadcast spreader  easier, but you still have to pay attention to what you are doing to be sure you application is spread evenly on the lawn.

Fertilize Oklahoma Bermuda Grass

May 1, June 1, July 1, August 1, and September 1

Fertilize Oklahoma Buffalo Grass

May 1 and August 1

Fertilize Oklahoma  Zoysia Grass

May 1, June 1, and September 1

Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass

March 1, May 1, October 1, and December 1

Slow Release Fertilizer

Fewer applications of slow release fertilizer are necessary for Bermuda grass because more ni­trogen can be applied per application. Therefore, the July and September fertilizer applications on Bermuda grass can be dropped if a slow release fertilizer is used. A slow release fertilizer is also recommended for the May application on fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass lawns.

Organic Fertilization

Organic fertilizers require less water, less mowing, saves you money and will not burn your lawn. Where To Buy Organic Products  I use an organic product called Sustane, I do not bag my grass and I water deeply 2 times per week in the summer.  This can very according to current weather conditions.  The result is a beautiful, healthy green lawn.  I applied the same practice in the DFW area with St. Augustine with the same results.

Do not forget to water the birds during  Oklahoma summers!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Plant

All hot weather herbs.

Ground covers such as Asian jasmine, English ivy, purple winter creeper.

Vegetables that do well in hot weather such as peas, okra, squash, melons.

Perennials like gladiolas cannas, asters, & mums.

Warm weather annuals including, begonias, zinnia, periwinkles, caladiums, elephant ears, verbena.

Lawns for warm weather can be put in from sod, seed, plugs and even by hydro mulching.

Container trees and shrubs…remember to harden them off before planting. Remove all burlap & any twine  or cord.  Plant with the root flare exposed above ground. (Do not kill your Oklahoma tree by over mulching)

Fertilize

All annual flowers and potted plants.  Any new plantings can have their roots drenched with a root stimulator to help set buds for flowers.

Warm season lawns can be fertilized again in May. (Oklahoma bermuda lawn fertilization schedule)

If you use chemicals a second application of pre-emergent grass herbicide can be applied at the end of the month, depending on the timing of the first application.

Prune

Great time to shear branches (not to cut limbs) on scale leaved evergreens.

As flowers fade on spring flowering plants they can be pruned.

Water

As needed, if windy you may need to water more than normal.

All new plantings.

Do forget to feed and water the birds!

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

To appreciate the list, remember plants have a particular environment that they do best in.  You can not provide the best environment without knowing what type of soil that you have. You can not expect the best from your plant if you do not pay attention to your plant’s, shrub’s or tree’s health at the time of purchase.  This should be known as "Your Plants Most Important Day"! You will also want to know what habitat your plantings do best in and consider where or not you have that particular environment to offer.

Since all plants need air, water, and organic matter to survive and flourish your mulching techniques are just as important as are your irrigation practices.  Even your chosen method of fertilization, disease and pest control are critical to your success.

1. A Soil Test Was Not Done

 2. Failure to Plan What , Where and When

3. Not Aware Of Your Plants "Most Important Day"

4. Over Use Of Synthetic Fertilizers and Other Chemicals

5. Improper Irrigation

6. No Cultivation Of The Soil

6. Failure To Mulch  

7. You  Killed All The Good Bugs

8. You Do Not Compost

9. You Bag and Discard your Lawn Clippings

Oklahoma’s "The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Remember not to remove the foliage on your spring bulbs just yet.  The bulbs are still gathering nutrients for next years flowers.  Once the leaves begin to die back then remove them.

Plant

Bedding plants, summer bulbs, annual flowering seeds can begin about mid April.

Warm season crops such as okra, tomatoes What is Wrong With My Tomatoes, squash.

Herbs like basil, lemongrass, mint, oregano, sage and thyme, etc.

It is still not too late to get in your Oklahoma trees and shrubs.

Begin planting Oklahoma Bermuda lawns at the end of the month from sprigs, plugs or sod.

Fertilize

I drench the roots of all new plantings with Garret Juice. My Favorite Organic Products  I also use it as a foliar spray.  Since it is organic it will not burn your plants.

If you use organic lawn fertilizer that can also be applied at 20LBS/1000 sq. ft.

If you use chemical fertilizers and have an Oklahoma warm-season lawn you will need to fertilize 5 times per year.  The first application will be the last week of April to the first week of May. When to Fertilize Your Oklahoma Warm-Season Lawn.  The application rate for high nitrogen fertilizer is one pound per 1000sf.  this will produce a high quality lawn.  Remember to water in the this type of fertilizer.

Prune

If you still have freeze damage on branches or other plants remove it to promote new growth and to improve the over all appearance and health of the plant/shrub/tree.

Mow Bermuda and Zoysia to a height of 1 to 1.5 inches and buffalo grass to 3 inches.  It is not necessary to scalp your lawn it only promotes the growth of weeds. 

Water

Water as needed, however pay more attention to new plantings. Also, Oklahoma winds will dry things out quickly. 

Container plants as needed.

Do forget to feed and water the birds!

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

If you have had some of the experiences I have had with onions, then you have had onions that are not always sweet and have varied in size.  You may have also struggled with trying to determine when to harvest your onions?  Below, this Red Dirt Gardener will share with you what I have learned about growing a sweet onion in my Oklahoma garden.

The Most Important Day Of Your Onions Life

O Please, an onion has a important day in it’s life?  Yes, it really does and it is the day that you buy it.  You buy the wrong type of onion and you could not only end up with hot onions but also an onion that does not grow or bolts.  Bolting is when the onion puts up a seed head because it came from a warm climate and was planted in your garden while we had cold weather.  It may also bolt if a short day onion has been planted in a long day area.

Buy your onions early not as individual plants but as a "set". A set of onions will be tied together generally with a tag attached as to what type of onion it is.  Note, the crates are generally labeled as well.  It is a good idea to match the tag on the set to the label on the crate because not every shopper will put them back properly. Also, you will want to make sure the set(s) you selected look healthy and as hydrated as possible.

Where Do Garden Onions Come From

Generally, the growers down in the valley will plant their onions like the Texas 1015 the middle of October, thus the 1015 name.  Other onions like the Vidalia are grown in Vidalia GA, the OSO sweet is grown in the mountains of Chili, and the Sweet Imperial comes from California. 

How to Pick A Sweet Onion That Will Grow In A Oklahoma Garden 

Let me give you a bit of a back ground in an onion’s life so when you go to buy your sets and you read the tag or the label on the crate you will understand what it says and come home with a sweet onion. 

Onions are classified by the length of day they perform best in.  There are long day, short day and intermediate day onions.  For Oklahoma you will want a short day onion.  So whether you mail order your onions or buy them in the store be sure they are short day onions.  You will have a number onions to choose from.  Among them are the Granex varieties, Maui, Vadalia, OSO Sweet, Maui, etc.  No matter what you do and no matter how many times the onion’s name has "sweet" in it, if it is a Granex varsity the onion will never be sweet. 

One onion that grows great in Oklahoma gardens and is always sweet is the Texas 1015.  The 1015Y is a wonderful sweet yellow  onion.  If you like a red onion try the red Bermuda…not really a sweet onion but it is good.  Do you need onions that have a long shelf life ……try the Spanish Onions.

One more tidbit, Texas 1015Y, denotes that the plant was planted in Texas on October 15th and its color is yellow.

Plant My Onions In 6 Easy Steps

Now that you understand why the day you bought your onions is the onion’s most important day, we will get on with planting.

1. Pull any existing weeds out of the bed where the onions are to be planted.

2. When selecting you site be sure the plants will get the proper amount of sun light and be well drained once in the ground.

3. Consider how convenient or inconvenient it is going to be to water your onions.  If it is a hassle, you are more likely to not water. Notice that the onions have very shallow roots?  They will need water.

4.  For small onions, plant the new plants close together.  For larger onions provide more space between the plants.

5.  Add organic materials and mix well with the Oklahoma clay prior to planting.  This will provide nutrients to the onions and the soil.  Since clay soil is so compact, the organic materials will  begin breaking down the clay so water, oxygen and minerals will be available to whatever is planted in the bed.

6. Finish up with a dressing to help slow evaporation during Oklahoma’s spring winds.  I like using mulch I have made by chipper shredding the clippings from my yard. 

Fertilizing

You want to use a urea or for those using chemical a 46-0-0.  If you use a fertilizer other than this, it will contain sulfur (it will be listed on the back of the bag) and that is not a good thing for your onions. Note:34-0-0 is not the same thing as it has sulfur in it.  The reason you want to apply urea/nitrogen to the onions is because you want to promote the growth of leaves.  I am sure you are now thinking that is odd, since you are  growing onions to have onions not leaves.  Well, did you know that every leave has a corresponding ring forming the onion? More leaves = more onion.

Should You Step On Your Onions 

This is like talking politics to some onion growers…Here is my take on it.  You do not need to step on the tops to start the process of preparing the onions to be pulled.  The tops will go over on their own, this is call "bulbing".  Bulbing is initiated by the  length of the day and begins your 7 to 10 day count down to harvest.  Do not wait till the tops begin deteriorating to harvest.

Once out of the ground store the onions in a shady area with the tops on.  I usually gather them into bunches, tie a string around them and hang them in the garage.

Enjoy!

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

Oklahoma’s "Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Oklahoma trees, shrubs and other permanent plants can still be planted.

Cultivate your Oklahoma beds to get rid of weeds.  If you have a lot of weeds, cover the bed with 5 sheets of newspaper and top with compost.

Begin warm season crops like lettuce, cauliflower, peas, radish, potatoes, spinach and onion. read article on "The Most Important Day Of Your Onions Life"

Fertilize

Drench new plantings with Garret Juice to stimulate root growth.

Organic fertilizer can be put down at approximately 20lbs. per 1000sf. (Sustane, Yum,Yum or Soil Mender).Buy Soil Mender

Actively growing plants can be drenched with Garrett Juice.

Garrett Juice (ready to spray) The BEST basic organic foliar spray/soil drench you will ever use! Here’s the recipe:

1 cup manure-based compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed

Garrett Juice Concentrate
1 gallon Compost Tea
1 pint Cider Vinegar
1 pint Liquefied Seaweed
1 pint Blackstrap Molasses

Mix all ingredients together. For spraying: use 1 ½ cups of concentrate per 1 gallon of water.
*1 pint = 2 cups = 16 ounces

Weed Control

Broad leaf weeds can still be controlled as long as it is not 50 degrees with a post emergent.

Corn Gluten can be put down to control turf weeds.

Prune

Time to finish all major pruning.  This includes grasses like Maiden grasses and monkey grass/liriope.

Prune Oklahoma roses just before growth begins.  Watch for disease.

If you have any cold weather damage to foliage this should be removed as well.

Remove all suckers from the bases of deciduous shrubs.

Fruit trees should be pruned just before bud break.

DO NOT prune your spring flowering vines/shrubs until they finish their spring flowering: wisteria, spirea, flowering quince, azaleas, camellias. 

Water

Annuals and all dry soil areas as needed.

Potted plants.

Turf during dry conditions.

Yellow Finch’s plumage will begin to turn bright yellow in March.  These beautiful boys will then begin to build a nest to attract a mate.  Upon completion of the nest, he proceeds with his load  singing early in the morning and continuing late into the evening for a female.  Showing each eligible girl his nest.  If she takes a shine to him, she will promptly tear up his nest to build her own.  Ah, such is love.

To attract this colorful bird to your yard put out a thistle feeder.

Remember to feed and water the birds!

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Though he did not specifically mention Oklahoma weeds,  I do tend to agree with Ralph Waldo Emerson when he defined a weed as “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered”. True, some of Oklahoma’s weeds are adorned with pretty flowers like the bushy aster below. And while other Oklahoma weeds may have interesting foliage, I do not want their interesting contributions in my lawn or flower beds.

As we move from Oklahoma’s winter into spring, it is important that once we have reach about 50 degrees to begin your weed control program. This is will allow you to get the upper hand on pesky weeds such as foxtail, purslane, henbit, knotweed and common lambs quarter. These guys all went to seed this past fall and will begin their cycle all over again as they crop up in your lawn and garden.

If you want to save time and money read on…

The First Step To Getting Rid of Oklahoma Lawn and Garden Weeds

In order to have a effective herbicide plan you will need to know what types of weeds that you have because most herbicides control only certain  weeds. Identifying your weeds is critical in selecting the appropriate herbicide. Even if you can not positively identify your weeds (Oklahoma Weed Identification) just being able to distinguish whether they are grassy weeds or broadleaf weeds may very well be sufficient information for selecting the right herbicide.

All grassy weeds have long, narrow leaves with straight veins running parallel the full length of the leaf like the crabgrass pictured below.

Broadleaf weeds have broader leaves with veins arranged in a branching or net-like pattern. The most common is probably the dandelion but there are others like cud weed shown below.

The Second Step Is To Know When Your Weeds Are The Most Susceptible To Control

Knowing what weeds you have will allow you to know their life cycle. If you know what stage of growth the weed is in then you will also know when it is going to be most susceptible to a herbicide.  Application at the right stage of growth will save you time and money.

Oklahoma Summer/Winter Annual Weeds

Oklahoma’s annual weeds complete their life cycle in one growing season depositing seeds that they will emerge from the following year. There are annual weeds that grow in the summer and produce seeds in the fall, and there are annual weeds that grow in the winter and produce seeds in late spring or early summer.

When To Treat Your Weeds

Control of Oklahoma’s spring and summer germinating weeds is best accomplished before they emerge. Early treatment is the only way to get almost complete control over weeds and to stop their cycle. A pre emergent should not be applied until the days warm to at least 50 degrees.

Once summer annual weeds have germinated in the spring they will typically die with the first hard frost in the fall. Examples of commonly found Oklahoma summer annual grassy weeds include crabgrass, foxtails, goose grass, and sandbur.

Crabgrass and foxtails are controlled in  established turf grasses like Bermuda and buffalo by applying a pre emergence herbicides between March 15 to April 1.

Summer annual broadleaf weeds include asters, carpetweed, knotweed, puncture vine, common purslane, and spotted spurge can be safely controlled in established Bermuda grass perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and zoysia grass by applications of 2,4-D, Banvel (dicamba), MCPP (mecoprop) combinations (Trex-San, Trimec, 33-Plus, etc.) soon after their emergence in May and June.

Read The Label And More Is Not Better

Once you know what type of weeds you have be sure to read the label and follow the directions on any poison that you buy insuring that your weed is mentioned and do not over apply or you will only be wasting your time and money. 

 Do not forget to feed and water the birds!

One of my Oklahoma favorites, the  Painted Bunting

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

It is a very common misconception that pruning back Crapemyrtles in the winter increases the flower production the next year. This “hacking back” of the limbs actually creates less flower production because the plant tries to first make up the growth that has been cut away before setting new buds and flowers.

The practice of chopping of the top of the Crapemyrtle is all to common place . This type of pruning results in a not very attractive branching structure as seen below

(See Article “Crapemyrtle Murder in Oklahoma”)

Some people do excessive pruning because the plant is too large for the space it was planted in, still others see their neighbors doing it and feel they need to follow suit. Why? There are some instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.

1. Prune For An Ornamental Tree Look

To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower lateral branches one-third to halfway up the height of the plant. Also, remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk leaving a collar.

As tree growth continues remove the suckers or baby trees that start emerging at the base of the tree. These sprouts draw water and nutrients away from the main tree. You can pull these out  by hand if you catch them early enough, if not prune them back.

Each year while the Crapemyrtle is dormant (winter to early spring) you will want to continue the practice of corrective/selective pruning to remove defective or dead branches, to remove lateral branches, small twigs or branches in the center to create more open space for sun and air movement, as well as branches that are crossing/rubbing one another.

2. Prune To Control Height

To keep a crape myrtle at a manageable height, prune moderately by removing all twiggy growth back to main branch from which it emerged. This will give the plant a more uniform appearance. As mentioned earlier, the best way to maintain a Crapemyrtles size is to plant a known cultivar that will mature at the desired height.

3. Prune For A Shrub Look

To create the look and size of a small shrub, look for branches that are dry and unhealthy and remove them with pruning shears. Growth from the previous year that has grown to the width of a pencil should also be cut back so that only about 6 inches remains of each branch. (If you want a shrub then buy a variety that will stay small).

(Click here to select the right Crapemrytle for your Oklahoma lawn or garden)

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION!

The first thing you will want to arm yourself with is the location where you will plant the bulbs. Ask yourself these questions: (information provided with the bulbs will provide tips on location)

· Will the Bulb receive the recommended amount of light?

· Proper watering is essential, will it be available or is the location  going to be a pain to water?

· What will I have to do prepare the soil?

· Is this a flower that will grow in Oklahoma, in ZONE 7A?

· Are the bulbs I am planting healthy?

Be sure to buy your bulbs from a reliable source whether it is a local store, mail order or on the web. Selection based upon a lesser price may not yield the best flowers.

Red Dirt Gardening’s "How To Select Bulbs"

The bulb itself, is where all the nutrients are stored for the plant. It is therefore, beneficial to select as healthy of bulbs as possible to maximize flower production. Keep in mind that larger bulbs may also produce larger flowers within the same variety.

Handling each bulb before purchasing will tell you a lot about the health of the bulb.

DO NOT buy bulbs that:

· Feel dry or light weight compared to the other bulbs

· Have soft spots or areas with a white powdery substance

· Do not have a firm basal plate (where the roots come out)

· Have deep cuts or blemishes

It is okay that the bulbs have loose skin like an onion and have small nicks.

Red Dirt Gardening ON STORING BULBS                                       Bulbs like cool dark dry places. If your bulbs are in plastic get them into paper or lay them out on a tray until planting time. I store mine in the garage and have at times put them in the refrigerator several weeks before planting. Old rumors indicate that the cold temp will force the bulbs to bloom more. I cannot really tell if they do or not. Remember:

· Do not put bulbs in plastic bags to store them …they will have a better chance of rotting

· No closed bags…bulbs need to breath

· Place bulbs in a dark/cool place like the garage

Red Dirt Gardening’s BED PREPARATION

· Most bulbs prefer loose, porous soil because they need to have good drainage. If your soil does not drain well, improve it by adding nutrients and compost.

· Almost any soil can benefit from organic materials, especially sandy and heavy clay soils like we have.

FERTILIZATION

· Mix bone meal into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole.

PLANTING

When you buy your bulbs, look for information about specific planting depths and proper spacing for that particular variety.

· Those of us in the OKC metro are in ZONE 7A, which means that the optimum time to plant most of our bulbs will be around Thanksgiving.

· Generally bulbs are planted at a depth three times their diameter. It’s easier if you dig up a larger area at the proper depth, set them inside the hole, and then cover them.

· Several bulbs planted into one hole will give you a more dramatic effect than single bulbs per hole.

· Bulbs with different blooming times can also be put into the same hole for continuous blooming.  

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener