Oklahoma trees, shrubs and other permanent plants can still be planted.

Cultivate your Oklahoma beds to get rid of weeds.  If you have a lot of weeds, cover the bed with 5 sheets of newspaper and top with compost.

Begin warm season crops like lettuce, cauliflower, peas, radish, potatoes, spinach and onion. read article on "The Most Important Day Of Your Onions Life"

Fertilize

Drench new plantings with Garret Juice to stimulate root growth.

Organic fertilizer can be put down at approximately 20lbs. per 1000sf. (Sustane, Yum,Yum or Soil Mender).Buy Soil Mender

Actively growing plants can be drenched with Garrett Juice.

Garrett Juice (ready to spray) The BEST basic organic foliar spray/soil drench you will ever use! Here’s the recipe:

1 cup manure-based compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed

Garrett Juice Concentrate
1 gallon Compost Tea
1 pint Cider Vinegar
1 pint Liquefied Seaweed
1 pint Blackstrap Molasses

Mix all ingredients together. For spraying: use 1 ½ cups of concentrate per 1 gallon of water.
*1 pint = 2 cups = 16 ounces

Weed Control

Broad leaf weeds can still be controlled as long as it is not 50 degrees with a post emergent.

Corn Gluten can be put down to control turf weeds.

Prune

Time to finish all major pruning.  This includes grasses like Maiden grasses and monkey grass/liriope.

Prune Oklahoma roses just before growth begins.  Watch for disease.

If you have any cold weather damage to foliage this should be removed as well.

Remove all suckers from the bases of deciduous shrubs.

Fruit trees should be pruned just before bud break.

DO NOT prune your spring flowering vines/shrubs until they finish their spring flowering: wisteria, spirea, flowering quince, azaleas, camellias. 

Water

Annuals and all dry soil areas as needed.

Potted plants.

Turf during dry conditions.

Yellow Finch’s plumage will begin to turn bright yellow in March.  These beautiful boys will then begin to build a nest to attract a mate.  Upon completion of the nest, he proceeds with his load  singing early in the morning and continuing late into the evening for a female.  Showing each eligible girl his nest.  If she takes a shine to him, she will promptly tear up his nest to build her own.  Ah, such is love.

To attract this colorful bird to your yard put out a thistle feeder.

Remember to feed and water the birds!

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Though he did not specifically mention Oklahoma weeds,  I do tend to agree with Ralph Waldo Emerson when he defined a weed as “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered”. True, some of Oklahoma’s weeds are adorned with pretty flowers like the bushy aster below. And while other Oklahoma weeds may have interesting foliage, I do not want their interesting contributions in my lawn or flower beds.

As we move from Oklahoma’s winter into spring, it is important that once we have reach about 50 degrees to begin your weed control program. This is will allow you to get the upper hand on pesky weeds such as foxtail, purslane, henbit, knotweed and common lambs quarter. These guys all went to seed this past fall and will begin their cycle all over again as they crop up in your lawn and garden.

If you want to save time and money read on…

The First Step To Getting Rid of Oklahoma Lawn and Garden Weeds

In order to have a effective herbicide plan you will need to know what types of weeds that you have because most herbicides control only certain  weeds. Identifying your weeds is critical in selecting the appropriate herbicide. Even if you can not positively identify your weeds (Oklahoma Weed Identification) just being able to distinguish whether they are grassy weeds or broadleaf weeds may very well be sufficient information for selecting the right herbicide.

All grassy weeds have long, narrow leaves with straight veins running parallel the full length of the leaf like the crabgrass pictured below.

Broadleaf weeds have broader leaves with veins arranged in a branching or net-like pattern. The most common is probably the dandelion but there are others like cud weed shown below.

The Second Step Is To Know When Your Weeds Are The Most Susceptible To Control

Knowing what weeds you have will allow you to know their life cycle. If you know what stage of growth the weed is in then you will also know when it is going to be most susceptible to a herbicide.  Application at the right stage of growth will save you time and money.

Oklahoma Summer/Winter Annual Weeds

Oklahoma’s annual weeds complete their life cycle in one growing season depositing seeds that they will emerge from the following year. There are annual weeds that grow in the summer and produce seeds in the fall, and there are annual weeds that grow in the winter and produce seeds in late spring or early summer.

When To Treat Your Weeds

Control of Oklahoma’s spring and summer germinating weeds is best accomplished before they emerge. Early treatment is the only way to get almost complete control over weeds and to stop their cycle. A pre emergent should not be applied until the days warm to at least 50 degrees.

Once summer annual weeds have germinated in the spring they will typically die with the first hard frost in the fall. Examples of commonly found Oklahoma summer annual grassy weeds include crabgrass, foxtails, goose grass, and sandbur.

Crabgrass and foxtails are controlled in  established turf grasses like Bermuda and buffalo by applying a pre emergence herbicides between March 15 to April 1.

Summer annual broadleaf weeds include asters, carpetweed, knotweed, puncture vine, common purslane, and spotted spurge can be safely controlled in established Bermuda grass perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and zoysia grass by applications of 2,4-D, Banvel (dicamba), MCPP (mecoprop) combinations (Trex-San, Trimec, 33-Plus, etc.) soon after their emergence in May and June.

Read The Label And More Is Not Better

Once you know what type of weeds you have be sure to read the label and follow the directions on any poison that you buy insuring that your weed is mentioned and do not over apply or you will only be wasting your time and money. 

 Do not forget to feed and water the birds!

One of my Oklahoma favorites, the  Painted Bunting

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Oklahoma gardeners will want to take advantage of this month being an excellent month to plant bare rooted trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, plants that are permanent. 

Begin vegetable garden with cool season plants like onions, radishes and potatoes (see article on the Best onions and potatoes for Oklahoma gardeners).

Finish up transplanting

Fertilizer

If you have never done a soil test on your yard/beds now would be a great time to do so as we approach the growing season.  (see article "SOIL TESTING"). 

Continue with pre-emergent weed control. Corn gluten meal can be applied at 20lbs./ 10000 sq.ft.

If you use chemicals this will be the 1st application of a broad leaf pre-emergent February 20th. Prior to the 10th use post-emergent .

Prune

Shade and ornamental trees can be pruned lightly to remove limbs that have been damaged by the winter winds/freezes.  Also remove limbs that are crossing and those the would allow more light into the plant.  Following proper pruning techniques.

Evergreens with scale type leaves should have the longest canes pruned to reduce height and maintain the plants natural appearance.

Roses that bloom only once should be pruned, ie. bush and climbers.

Finish up pruning all summer flowering shrubs and hedges.

Water

Winter annuals and any dry soil areas…particularly in drought and windy conditions.

Do not Forget to feed and water the birds

Oklahoma’s "Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Plant
All remaining daffodils and tulips that were not planted earlier. Oklahoma Red Dirt Bulb Planting 101

Transplant all remaining shrubs that need to moved.

Trees, shrubs, and vines.

Fertilizer
Organic fertilization of newly planted trees and shrubs can be drenched with Garrett Juice to stimulate root growth.  This can be done each month until the plant is established.

If you did not treat young pines for tip bores in November do so before March.

Organic treatment of cool season weeds in dormant turf can be done with real 10% vinegar made from grain alcohol (do not use 20% vinegar made from 99% acetic acid).

To chemically treat cool weather weeds, you can use a post emergent broad leaf weed killer as long as it is above 50 degrees F.  ie Roundup. 

Prune
Most deciduous trees and shrubs.

Evergreens with both scale and needle like leaves.

All dead and diseased branches and limbs.

Lower limbs to facilitate mowing and allow for passage down sidewalks.

Limbs or branches that are crossing Crowded center branches can also be removed to improve air flow.

Summer flowering trees to shape them.

Remember not to use pruning paint and not to make flush cuts.  Leave the branch collar.

(see Red Dirt Gardening article on "Pruning") 

Water
Check soils moisture levels.  The top of the soil maybe dry to the touch, so you might want to use a long screw driver or 10" nail to see if the under lying soil is still moist.  This can be done by sticking a screw driver or nail  down in the ground about 6 inches.  

If there has been no significant rain fall water all beds and turf.                                       

24 hours before a hard freeze.

Do not forget to feed and water the birds

The Original Red Dirt Gardener

 

Plant

Container grown shade trees and shrubs.  (see Red Dirt Gardening’s article on "Proper Tree Planting").

Transplant shrubs or vines that need moved.

Fertilize

Easy to pull henbit and clover that might emerge this month. 

Apply broad weed herbicide to well established cool and warm season lawns.

Prune

Evergreens to improve their appearance and natural shape. (see Red Dirt Gardening’s "Pruning Calendar for Home Owners").

Shade trees can can be pruned to improve their appearance. Do Not prune to "thin".  Selective pruning is recommended for removal of crossing branches and limbs to allow light to the under story plantings.  and to prevent weighted "crotches" from splitting in the ice and wind.

Remove dead limbs from shade trees.

Do not prune newly planted trees

Do not make flush cuts, top trees or pruning paints(see Red Dirt Gardening’s article on "Pruning" for proper techniques and tools).

While trees are in their dormant months remove any ground cover away from the root flare and trunks.  Remove dirt carefully using a stiff broom or water.

Remove any dead or diseased plantings from your beds.

Water

Continue to water once a month if soil is dry. 

Water 24 hours before a freeze.  This will help to prevent winter freeze and plant death.

Don’t Forget To Feed & Water The Birds

The Original Red Dirt Gardener

You would think in all this color and beauty, there would be a break in the Oklahoma garden chores …but NO!  Below are the “Original” Red Dirt Gardener’s tips for the month of November.

Plant

Continue planting spring flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, & hyacinths. I always cool my bulbs for 30 to 45 days prior to planting in December. (do not store bulbs in plastic bags or plastic containers as they might become diseased by the moisture).

Finish planting cool season spring flowering annuals  like pansies, kale, flowering cabbage, alyssum and Johnny jump ups.

Transplanting of woody plants can begin after the first frost.

Spring and summer flowering perennials like iris and day lilies.

Trees, shrubs and vines.

Fertilize

During the first week fertilize cool season turf.

Continue controlling broadleaf weeds in well established warm and cool season lawns with post emergent weed killer.  If you are opposed to chemicals as I am, manually remove the emerging weeds.

Put down 1/2” of compost if you have a poorly performing lawn.  the compost also servers as an excellent dressing in your beds.

Foliar feed all actively growing plants like evergreens with Garret juice. (see recommended organic products)

Prune

Remove (deadhead) all spent blooms and dead tips on annuals and perennials.

Trim away all dead and dying.

Selectively prune spindly growth.

Do major pruning from mid November through February.

Compost all debris except of what is diseased

Due to the numerous pine diseases in Oklahoma I recommend disposing of all pine needles and cones by removing them from your property.

Do not prune newly planted trees or shrubs.

Mulch

All bare ornamental beds for winter protection and help in preventing weeds in the spring.

DO NOT pile mulch up the trunk of trees as it will only cause the tree to become diseased. see “Red Dirt Gardening’s 5 Tips for Mulching Trees”

Continue mowing cool season lawns.

Save those leaves and branches to chipper shred and use for mulch in your beds.

Water

The Oklahoma wind still dries out our Oklahoma red dirt lawn and garden. Though we do not need to water as often, vegetation still needs water so water at least once a month if the soil is dry.

Water 24 hours before a freeze.  This will help to prevent winter freeze and plant death.

If You Have A Water Feature

Now is a good time to lay a screening material, anchored by stones over the pool portion of your Oklahoma water feature to keep out the debris. As soon as all the leaves have fallen and have been raked up, remove the screening material and store until next year.

November’s Last Weekend Chore 

As Oklahoma Red Dirt Gardening chores begin to slow down, I find that November is also a good time to clean up and winterize all my tools. This includes draining the fuel from my power equipment.  As well as cleaning and sharpening my tools. They are stored with a quick spray of lubricant on them to prevent rusting. 

Click here for tips on winterizing your sprinkler system in the OKC and surrounding areas. 

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Let me tell you, this Red Dirt Gardener lives in a neighborhood fortunate enough to have brick and stone structures at the entrances to our neighborhood which could provide a wonderful backdrop for carefully planted and cared for Oklahoma trees, shrubs and flowers.  As you drive through my neighborhood, you will find pockets of homes where the owners have invested varying amounts of time and money to their homes landscaping.  We have all heard how landscaping which has been tastefully done and maintained adds tremendous eye appeal to your home.  However, does this investment have the same effect on increasing your homes value just like a kitchen remodel does?

• A recent Gallup Organization poll indicated that new home buyers and buyers of previously owned homes believe that landscaping adds nearly 15 percent, on average, to a home’s value or selling price.
• Real estate appraisers however, rate the value of residential-property landscaping at 7.28 percent and commercial-property landscaping at 6 percent. • The April 2006 issue of Money magazine reported:  “Landscaping improvement has a recovery value of 100 percent to 200 percent if it is well done and harmonizes with nearby plantings. This compares to a recovery value of a kitchen overhaul of 75 percent to 125 percent;
a bathroom [renovation], 80 percent to 120 percent; a new deck or patio, 40 percent to 70 percent; and a swimming pool, 20 percent to 50 percent.”
• There is a direct correlation between the price paid for a home and the influence of landscaping in the buying decision. Buyers of higher-priced homes are more influenced by landscaping.

All of this said….now imagine the appeal of your neighborhood if you association were to tastefully landscape and maintain your entrances?  That would be what I would call a 2 times kicker!

Don’t forget to feed and put out water for the birds.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Mums, pansies, kale, dianthus.

Cool season veggies like garlic, cabbage, beets, carrots, lettuce, turnips.

Container grown shade trees and pines. 

Seed cool season lawns. 

Dig and store any tender bulbs that you have. 

Fertilize

Fertilization of Bermuda lawns should have been completed mid September. Do no fertilize Bermuda until next spring.

Great time to begin controlling broad leaf weeds with a broadleaf pre emergent.

Broadcast dry molasses for any plants no looking well.

Prune

Tree limbs that are broken. Do not make flush cuts or use pruning paints.

Root-prune wisterias that have not bloomed. This should shock the plant and hopefully trigger bud set. Start by going out about two feet from the vine’s trunk with a sharp spade and go down about 12 inches all the way around the plane.

Dead head roses.

Dead head summer perennials.

Remove all diseased plant material.

Continue to mow and edge your Oklahoma lawn. 

Water

Less frequently and deep.

Set your sprinkler systems to their fall setting.(watch for article on How To Winterize Your Sprinkler System for Oklahoma Winters.)

Remember to feed and water the birds

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

August for Oklahoma lawns and gardens can easily be summed up with one word, WATER.

Plant

Divide and replant any spring blooming perennials.

Finish any last minute planting of fall vegetables in your Oklahoma Garden.

Mums and asters

Fall bulbs like amaryllis and crocus.

Fertilize

Bermuda lawns if adequate moisture is available

Young trees and shrubs

Foliar feed your Oklahoma Atlas and other evergreens with Garret Juice (see Amazon Links)

Struggling plants would also benefit from a soil drenching of Garret Juice (see Amazon Links)

Prune

Dead head declining flowering plants to clean up the  appearance of you Oklahoma flower bed, to encourage more blooming and to keep some of those ever multiplying flowers in one spot. 

Dead and damaged branches from shrubs and trees.  Do not do major pruning

Finish dead heading roses by mid month to help initiate winter hardiness

Water

All potted and hanging plants

Oklahoma lawns and gardens, unless it has been usually wet and rainy (ha-ha) this is the month you will have to water more than any other month.  Try to watering more deeply as I learned to do years ago. I like to put down an inch or so with each watering. If you do, you will water less often, save money and time, have fewer incidents of plant and turf stress between waterings and it will train the roots to go deeper into the ground. (note: soil types, weather patterns and plant recommendations will vary watering patterns and frequencies). see article on Saving Your Oklahoma Lawn While On Vacation

Do not forget to water the birds and have fun watching them!

“The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today. 

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

Click the banner below for information

It is a very common misconception that pruning back Crapemyrtles in the winter increases the flower production the next year. This “hacking back” of the limbs actually creates less flower production because the plant tries to first make up the growth that has been cut away before setting new buds and flowers.

The practice of chopping of the top of the Crapemyrtle is all to common place . This type of pruning results in a not very attractive branching structure as seen below

(See Article “Crapemyrtle Murder in Oklahoma”)

Some people do excessive pruning because the plant is too large for the space it was planted in, still others see their neighbors doing it and feel they need to follow suit. Why? There are some instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.

1. Prune For An Ornamental Tree Look

To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower lateral branches one-third to halfway up the height of the plant. Also, remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk leaving a collar.

As tree growth continues remove the suckers or baby trees that start emerging at the base of the tree. These sprouts draw water and nutrients away from the main tree. You can pull these out  by hand if you catch them early enough, if not prune them back.

Each year while the Crapemyrtle is dormant (winter to early spring) you will want to continue the practice of corrective/selective pruning to remove defective or dead branches, to remove lateral branches, small twigs or branches in the center to create more open space for sun and air movement, as well as branches that are crossing/rubbing one another.

2. Prune To Control Height

To keep a crape myrtle at a manageable height, prune moderately by removing all twiggy growth back to main branch from which it emerged. This will give the plant a more uniform appearance. As mentioned earlier, the best way to maintain a Crapemyrtles size is to plant a known cultivar that will mature at the desired height.

3. Prune For A Shrub Look

To create the look and size of a small shrub, look for branches that are dry and unhealthy and remove them with pruning shears. Growth from the previous year that has grown to the width of a pencil should also be cut back so that only about 6 inches remains of each branch. (If you want a shrub then buy a variety that will stay small).

(Click here to select the right Crapemrytle for your Oklahoma lawn or garden)

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener