It is a very common misconception that pruning back Crapemyrtles in the winter increases the flower production the next year. This “hacking back” of the limbs actually creates less flower production because the plant tries to first make up the growth that has been cut away before setting new buds and flowers.

The practice of chopping of the top of the Crapemyrtle is all to common place . This type of pruning results in a not very attractive branching structure as seen below

(See Article “Crapemyrtle Murder in Oklahoma”)

Some people do excessive pruning because the plant is too large for the space it was planted in, still others see their neighbors doing it and feel they need to follow suit. Why? There are some instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.

1. Prune For An Ornamental Tree Look

To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower lateral branches one-third to halfway up the height of the plant. Also, remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk leaving a collar.

As tree growth continues remove the suckers or baby trees that start emerging at the base of the tree. These sprouts draw water and nutrients away from the main tree. You can pull these out  by hand if you catch them early enough, if not prune them back.

Each year while the Crapemyrtle is dormant (winter to early spring) you will want to continue the practice of corrective/selective pruning to remove defective or dead branches, to remove lateral branches, small twigs or branches in the center to create more open space for sun and air movement, as well as branches that are crossing/rubbing one another.

2. Prune To Control Height

To keep a crape myrtle at a manageable height, prune moderately by removing all twiggy growth back to main branch from which it emerged. This will give the plant a more uniform appearance. As mentioned earlier, the best way to maintain a Crapemyrtles size is to plant a known cultivar that will mature at the desired height.

3. Prune For A Shrub Look

To create the look and size of a small shrub, look for branches that are dry and unhealthy and remove them with pruning shears. Growth from the previous year that has grown to the width of a pencil should also be cut back so that only about 6 inches remains of each branch. (If you want a shrub then buy a variety that will stay small).

(Click here to select the right Crapemrytle for your Oklahoma lawn or garden)

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Many varieties are available ranging in heights of 3 to 11 feet for the ornamental trees and 15 to 20 feet for other varieties.

Let’s not forget the Crapemyrtle dwarfs which can be 2 to 3 feet tall.

These colorful plants not only hold up to Oklahoma’s heat with showy flowers, but also the Oklahoma soil.  During Oklahoma winters, we learn to appreciate the Crapemyrtles artful structure, seed capsules and peeling bark.

PLACEMENT:

These guys love full sun and plenty of circulation.  When choosing your plant give careful consideration to the size of the plant when full grown.  Do not buy a ornamental tree when what you need is a 2 foot variety.  Pruning or topping is not a remedy for choosing the wrong size of plant.

FLOWERS AND FRUIT:

The flowers are lacy and showy, coming in a multitude of colors and shades of predominantly pinks and violets.  Whites and reds are also available. The seed capsules left at the ends of the branches by the flowers are great for attracting birds during the winter months.  I think the pods also add to the winter interest of the tree.

BARK:

The peeling bark is one of the treasures we are left with during the winter months. The bark is very smooth and ranges in color from pinkish to grayish. The bark is quite thin and exfoliates to expose smooth pale-colored branch underneath.

FOLIAGE:

Small, alternate, leaves that are rounded at the base, generally 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The leaves will change colors in fall before dropping.

Enjoy watching the birds?  Remember to give them water.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Do you, my fellow red dirt gardeners, know how to properly mulch around your trees? Are you able to select from the images above the tree that is properly mulched? I know I see all too many trees mulched as the picture on the left, by home owners and professionals. In fact, mulched piled high up the truck is all too common of a site. This practice is called “volcano mulching” and creates a very unhealthy environment for the tree.

Red Dirt Gardening’s 5 Things to Know About Mulching Trees

1. Deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot.

2. Piling mulch against the trunk or even the stems of other plants, creates stress.  A stressed plant or tree will most likely lead to insect and disease problems. 

3. PH is often adversely affected by an over abundance of mulch, the improper use of mulch, or the wrong type of mulch.  Especially those mulches containing cut grass. Over long periods of time, this type of mulching causes deficiencies or toxicities in the soil because of the high nitrogen levels created by the grass clippings, as well as the suffocation of the micro organisms in the soil.

4. Mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents that chew the bark.  The tree may also girdle.

5. Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and may prevent the penetration of water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can become like potting soil and may support weed growth (they are very easy to pull out of mulch).

In closing, trees once stressed by improper mulching often never really achieve their potential beauty because of the unhealthy environment that has been created for them.

Remember: If the tree had a say in the matter, its entire root system would be mulched going out away from the tree about 3 feet with no mulch against its trunk.  The mulch would be at a depth of up to 3 or 4 inches deep.  This will help conserve moisture and add nutrients  as the mulch decomposes. 

No tree nor plant should ever be mulched up the trunk or stem. 

The “Original” RED DIRT GARDENER