It is easy to forget as you plan your vacation, that your Oklahoma lawn and garden could very well experience consecutive century days, days of drying winds or days without any rain fail.  All of which, could have a negative impact on your lawn and plants.

This Oklahoma Red Dirt Gardener suggests completing these 3 easy steps prior to leaving on summer vacation.

1. Pull Weeds

You will want to pull any large weeds because they will only compete with your lawn, flowers, vegetables or shrubs for food and water.  Plus, who wants to come home to a bed of unsightly weeds.

2. Water Deeply Before Leaving

Whether we have had a rain or not, I always water deeply the night before leaving.  If you have an irrigation system be sure to set it to properly water while you are gone.

3. Apply A Generous Amount Of Mulch To Beds

I use a good shredded cedar mulch in my beds.  It helps to prevent evaporation and reduces the chances of weeds getting a foot hold.  An added benefit to using this type of mulch, is that it can be tilled in the following spring.

Do not fertilize right before you leave on vacation!  If the proper moisture is not available to your lawn and plants in our absence they could become very stressed and possibly die.

Have a great vacation and do not forget the birds!

Even this ole Turkey Vulture needs a bath.

Oklahoma’s “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Powdery Mildew on Crepe Myrtle

Recognizing Powdery Mildew

As the name implies, powdery mildew looks like powdery splotches of white or gray powder on the leaves and stems of plants. Even though there are  several types of this fungi, they all look basically the same.

When you do finally notice powdery mildew it is usually on the top surfaces of the leaves.  Up on closer examination you may see the powdery looking fungus also on the stems, flowers, buds and even the fruit on the infected plant.

Although powdery mildew is unattractive, it is rarely fatal. It does stress the plant and severe or repetitive infections will weaken the plant. If enough of the leaf surface becomes covered with powdery mildew it will usually fall off prematurely.

The real harm to your Oklahoma plants occur when the powdery mildew effects the photosynthesis of the plant.  Edible crops with  insufficient photosynthesis will suffer from  diminished flavor in the fruit or vegetable. If buds become infected,like on Oklahoma Crepe Myrtle or your roses they may not open and mature at all.

Squash infected with Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew Is Host Specific 

This is probably the only positive thing about  powdery mildew. Host specific means that is will not spread from your roses to your Crepe Myrtle however, all powdery mildews favor the same conditions.

What Causes Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew fungi overwinters in plant debris and begin producing spores in the spring (another reason to clean out those beds).  The spores can be introduced to your plants by wind, insects or splashing water.

Conditions that encourage the growth and spread of powdery mildew include:

• Dampness or high humidity (Not common during rainy seasons or in extreme heat)
• Crowded plantings
• Poor air circulation

Treatment for Powdery Mildew 

I use it, it works and it is not toxic! PLANT WASH

You will also find chemical treatments available in local stores.  Be sure the product is used in the treatment of Powdery Mildew.  This can be found by reading the label of the product you are considering purchasing.  Also make note of recommend applications. More is never good with chemicals and often hurts the plant.

I would also recommend cleaning out the debris from your gardens along with following recommended planting procedures and locations when putting in plants.

You can also want to remove the infected parts. If you do remove these parts do not compost them but bag and place in a trash receptacle.  Why, because powdery mildew is a fungus and has spores. Plus, whatever tool you use to remove the infected parts should be cleaned thoroughly and have the blades wiped down with a disinfectant.

Do not forget to feed and water the birds!

Morning Doves mate for life and are without a doubt one of the worst nest builders around.  You can only hope the Oklahoma wind does not blow the eggs out.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Sharing my gardening interests with others is not only enjoyable but allows me to share with others what I have learned. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs or horses, play sports, or own a small business…. consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

Though he did not specifically mention Oklahoma weeds,  I do tend to agree with Ralph Waldo Emerson when he defined a weed as “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered”. True, some of Oklahoma’s weeds are adorned with pretty flowers like the bushy aster below. And while other Oklahoma weeds may have interesting foliage, I do not want their interesting contributions in my lawn or flower beds.

As we move from Oklahoma’s winter into spring, it is important that once we have reach about 50 degrees to begin your weed control program. This is will allow you to get the upper hand on pesky weeds such as foxtail, purslane, henbit, knotweed and common lambs quarter. These guys all went to seed this past fall and will begin their cycle all over again as they crop up in your lawn and garden.

If you want to save time and money read on…

The First Step To Getting Rid of Oklahoma Lawn and Garden Weeds

In order to have a effective herbicide plan you will need to know what types of weeds that you have because most herbicides control only certain  weeds. Identifying your weeds is critical in selecting the appropriate herbicide. Even if you can not positively identify your weeds (Oklahoma Weed Identification) just being able to distinguish whether they are grassy weeds or broadleaf weeds may very well be sufficient information for selecting the right herbicide.

All grassy weeds have long, narrow leaves with straight veins running parallel the full length of the leaf like the crabgrass pictured below.

Broadleaf weeds have broader leaves with veins arranged in a branching or net-like pattern. The most common is probably the dandelion but there are others like cud weed shown below.

The Second Step Is To Know When Your Weeds Are The Most Susceptible To Control

Knowing what weeds you have will allow you to know their life cycle. If you know what stage of growth the weed is in then you will also know when it is going to be most susceptible to a herbicide.  Application at the right stage of growth will save you time and money.

Oklahoma Summer/Winter Annual Weeds

Oklahoma’s annual weeds complete their life cycle in one growing season depositing seeds that they will emerge from the following year. There are annual weeds that grow in the summer and produce seeds in the fall, and there are annual weeds that grow in the winter and produce seeds in late spring or early summer.

When To Treat Your Weeds

Control of Oklahoma’s spring and summer germinating weeds is best accomplished before they emerge. Early treatment is the only way to get almost complete control over weeds and to stop their cycle. A pre emergent should not be applied until the days warm to at least 50 degrees.

Once summer annual weeds have germinated in the spring they will typically die with the first hard frost in the fall. Examples of commonly found Oklahoma summer annual grassy weeds include crabgrass, foxtails, goose grass, and sandbur.

Crabgrass and foxtails are controlled in  established turf grasses like Bermuda and buffalo by applying a pre emergence herbicides between March 15 to April 1.

Summer annual broadleaf weeds include asters, carpetweed, knotweed, puncture vine, common purslane, and spotted spurge can be safely controlled in established Bermuda grass perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and zoysia grass by applications of 2,4-D, Banvel (dicamba), MCPP (mecoprop) combinations (Trex-San, Trimec, 33-Plus, etc.) soon after their emergence in May and June.

Read The Label And More Is Not Better

Once you know what type of weeds you have be sure to read the label and follow the directions on any poison that you buy insuring that your weed is mentioned and do not over apply or you will only be wasting your time and money. 

 Do not forget to feed and water the birds!

One of my Oklahoma favorites, the  Painted Bunting

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

You would think in all this color and beauty, there would be a break in the Oklahoma garden chores …but NO!  Below are the “Original” Red Dirt Gardener’s tips for the month of November.

Plant

Continue planting spring flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, & hyacinths. I always cool my bulbs for 30 to 45 days prior to planting in December. (do not store bulbs in plastic bags or plastic containers as they might become diseased by the moisture).

Finish planting cool season spring flowering annuals  like pansies, kale, flowering cabbage, alyssum and Johnny jump ups.

Transplanting of woody plants can begin after the first frost.

Spring and summer flowering perennials like iris and day lilies.

Trees, shrubs and vines.

Fertilize

During the first week fertilize cool season turf.

Continue controlling broadleaf weeds in well established warm and cool season lawns with post emergent weed killer.  If you are opposed to chemicals as I am, manually remove the emerging weeds.

Put down 1/2” of compost if you have a poorly performing lawn.  the compost also servers as an excellent dressing in your beds.

Foliar feed all actively growing plants like evergreens with Garret juice. (see recommended organic products)

Prune

Remove (deadhead) all spent blooms and dead tips on annuals and perennials.

Trim away all dead and dying.

Selectively prune spindly growth.

Do major pruning from mid November through February.

Compost all debris except of what is diseased

Due to the numerous pine diseases in Oklahoma I recommend disposing of all pine needles and cones by removing them from your property.

Do not prune newly planted trees or shrubs.

Mulch

All bare ornamental beds for winter protection and help in preventing weeds in the spring.

DO NOT pile mulch up the trunk of trees as it will only cause the tree to become diseased. see “Red Dirt Gardening’s 5 Tips for Mulching Trees”

Continue mowing cool season lawns.

Save those leaves and branches to chipper shred and use for mulch in your beds.

Water

The Oklahoma wind still dries out our Oklahoma red dirt lawn and garden. Though we do not need to water as often, vegetation still needs water so water at least once a month if the soil is dry.

Water 24 hours before a freeze.  This will help to prevent winter freeze and plant death.

If You Have A Water Feature

Now is a good time to lay a screening material, anchored by stones over the pool portion of your Oklahoma water feature to keep out the debris. As soon as all the leaves have fallen and have been raked up, remove the screening material and store until next year.

November’s Last Weekend Chore 

As Oklahoma Red Dirt Gardening chores begin to slow down, I find that November is also a good time to clean up and winterize all my tools. This includes draining the fuel from my power equipment.  As well as cleaning and sharpening my tools. They are stored with a quick spray of lubricant on them to prevent rusting. 

Click here for tips on winterizing your sprinkler system in the OKC and surrounding areas. 

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Let me tell you, this Red Dirt Gardener lives in a neighborhood fortunate enough to have brick and stone structures at the entrances to our neighborhood which could provide a wonderful backdrop for carefully planted and cared for Oklahoma trees, shrubs and flowers.  As you drive through my neighborhood, you will find pockets of homes where the owners have invested varying amounts of time and money to their homes landscaping.  We have all heard how landscaping which has been tastefully done and maintained adds tremendous eye appeal to your home.  However, does this investment have the same effect on increasing your homes value just like a kitchen remodel does?

• A recent Gallup Organization poll indicated that new home buyers and buyers of previously owned homes believe that landscaping adds nearly 15 percent, on average, to a home’s value or selling price.
• Real estate appraisers however, rate the value of residential-property landscaping at 7.28 percent and commercial-property landscaping at 6 percent. • The April 2006 issue of Money magazine reported:  “Landscaping improvement has a recovery value of 100 percent to 200 percent if it is well done and harmonizes with nearby plantings. This compares to a recovery value of a kitchen overhaul of 75 percent to 125 percent;
a bathroom [renovation], 80 percent to 120 percent; a new deck or patio, 40 percent to 70 percent; and a swimming pool, 20 percent to 50 percent.”
• There is a direct correlation between the price paid for a home and the influence of landscaping in the buying decision. Buyers of higher-priced homes are more influenced by landscaping.

All of this said….now imagine the appeal of your neighborhood if you association were to tastefully landscape and maintain your entrances?  That would be what I would call a 2 times kicker!

Don’t forget to feed and put out water for the birds.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Mums, pansies, kale, dianthus.

Cool season veggies like garlic, cabbage, beets, carrots, lettuce, turnips.

Container grown shade trees and pines. 

Seed cool season lawns. 

Dig and store any tender bulbs that you have. 

Fertilize

Fertilization of Bermuda lawns should have been completed mid September. Do no fertilize Bermuda until next spring.

Great time to begin controlling broad leaf weeds with a broadleaf pre emergent.

Broadcast dry molasses for any plants no looking well.

Prune

Tree limbs that are broken. Do not make flush cuts or use pruning paints.

Root-prune wisterias that have not bloomed. This should shock the plant and hopefully trigger bud set. Start by going out about two feet from the vine’s trunk with a sharp spade and go down about 12 inches all the way around the plane.

Dead head roses.

Dead head summer perennials.

Remove all diseased plant material.

Continue to mow and edge your Oklahoma lawn. 

Water

Less frequently and deep.

Set your sprinkler systems to their fall setting.(watch for article on How To Winterize Your Sprinkler System for Oklahoma Winters.)

Remember to feed and water the birds

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

Based upon the type of turf you are using for your Oklahoma lawn you will find your annual fertilization schedule.  Prior to fertilizing, I encourage you to have a soil test done every 2 to 3 years.  This way you will know the right fertilizer bag to buy based upon the numbers on the bag..ie 10-5-10, 32-0-10, etc. See article on Oklahoma Soil Test 

If you follow this fertilization regiment, you should find yourself with a beautiful and healthy Oklahoma lawn. Remember to water adequately and apply the fertilizer evenly.

I encourage you not to bag your grass but to put a mulching blade on your mower and leave the clippings  on your lawn as it will put nitrogen back into the lawn. Also, by not bagging your grass clippings, you wont have to buy trash sacks any more to put them in. Plus, it is a whole lot easier to mow without the mower being weighted down by the grass clippings.

Example of unevenly applied fertilizer which was probably done with a drop spreader.  You may find using a broadcast spreader  easier, but you still have to pay attention to what you are doing to be sure you application is spread evenly on the lawn.

Fertilize Oklahoma Bermuda Grass

May 1, June 1, July 1, August 1, and September 1

Fertilize Oklahoma Buffalo Grass

May 1 and August 1

Fertilize Oklahoma  Zoysia Grass

May 1, June 1, and September 1

Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass

March 1, May 1, October 1, and December 1

Slow Release Fertilizer

Fewer applications of slow release fertilizer are necessary for Bermuda grass because more ni­trogen can be applied per application. Therefore, the July and September fertilizer applications on Bermuda grass can be dropped if a slow release fertilizer is used. A slow release fertilizer is also recommended for the May application on fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass lawns.

Organic Fertilization

Organic fertilizers require less water, less mowing, saves you money and will not burn your lawn. Where To Buy Organic Products  I use an organic product called Sustane, I do not bag my grass and I water deeply 2 times per week in the summer.  This can very according to current weather conditions.  The result is a beautiful, healthy green lawn.  I applied the same practice in the DFW area with St. Augustine with the same results. 

Do not forget to water the birds during  Oklahoma summers!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

To appreciate the list, remember plants have a particular environment that they do best in.  You can not provide the best environment without knowing what type of soil that you have. You can not expect the best from your plant if you do not pay attention to your plant’s, shrub’s or tree’s health at the time of purchase.  This should be known as “Your Plants Most Important Day”! You will also want to know what habitat your plantings do best in and consider where or not you have that particular environment to offer.

Since all plants need air, water, and organic matter to survive and flourish your mulching techniques are just as important as are your irrigation practices.  Even your chosen method of fertilization, disease and pest control are critical to your success.

1. A Soil Test Was Not Done

 2. Failure to Plan What , Where and When

3. Not Aware Of Your Plants “Most Important Day”

4. Over Use Of Synthetic Fertilizers and Other Chemicals

5. Improper Irrigation

6. No Cultivation Of The Soil

6. Failure To Mulch  

7. You  Killed All The Good Bugs

8. You Do Not Compost

9. You Bag and Discard your Lawn Clippings

Oklahoma’s “The Original” Red Dirt Gardener

How was I going to break down the red sticky clay?  I needed to amend the soil so that air and water could get between those fine particles.  Did you know that you can only see clay particles with an eleltron microscope?  They are so  small, unlike other soil types with coarser mineral particles.

I decided to use expanaded shale and organic material to begin the process of breaking down the clay so that my plantings could absorb the nutrients the clay had to offer.  After all clay is rich in nutrients.    I have gone to many stores that have called themselves “organic” only to find a store full of chemical solutions and mulch.   Mulch allowed them to call themselves organic! 

Everytime I go into a nursery I try to remember to ask for organic products by name in hopes that if enough of us ask, they will begin stocking something organic other than mulch.

As it stands, I go to the DFW to buy what I need about every 6 months.  I also order products from the web sites listed below.

 http://www.maxicrop.com/pages/products.html

 http://www.natures-guide.com/

 http://www.marshallgrain.com/marshall/

 http://www.soilmender.com/

http://www.medinaag.com/gardprod.htm

http://www.sustane.com/products.htm   

http://www.thebeneficialinsectco.com/products.htm

 http://www.maxicrop.com/pages/products.html

 http://www.natures-guide.com/

 http://www.marshallgrain.com/marshall/

 http://www.soilmender.com/

 http://www.medinaag.com/gardprod.htm

 “The Original” Red Dirt Gardener