Plant

Oklahoma gardeners will want to take advantage of this month being an excellent month to plant bare rooted trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, plants that are permanent. 

Begin vegetable garden with cool season plants like onions, radishes and potatoes (see article on the Best onions and potatoes for Oklahoma gardeners).

Finish up transplanting

Fertilizer

If you have never done a soil test on your yard/beds now would be a great time to do so as we approach the growing season.  (see article "SOIL TESTING"). 

Continue with pre-emergent weed control. Corn gluten meal can be applied at 20lbs./ 10000 sq.ft.

If you use chemicals this will be the 1st application of a broad leaf pre-emergent February 20th. Prior to the 10th use post-emergent .

Prune

Shade and ornamental trees can be pruned lightly to remove limbs that have been damaged by the winter winds/freezes.  Also remove limbs that are crossing and those the would allow more light into the plant.  Following proper pruning techniques.

Evergreens with scale type leaves should have the longest canes pruned to reduce height and maintain the plants natural appearance.

Roses that bloom only once should be pruned, ie. bush and climbers.

Finish up pruning all summer flowering shrubs and hedges.

Water

Winter annuals and any dry soil areas…particularly in drought and windy conditions.

Do not Forget to feed and water the birds

Oklahoma’s "Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Plant
All remaining daffodils and tulips that were not planted earlier. Oklahoma Red Dirt Bulb Planting 101

Transplant all remaining shrubs that need to moved.

Trees, shrubs, and vines.

Fertilizer
Organic fertilization of newly planted trees and shrubs can be drenched with Garrett Juice to stimulate root growth.  This can be done each month until the plant is established.

If you did not treat young pines for tip bores in November do so before March.

Organic treatment of cool season weeds in dormant turf can be done with real 10% vinegar made from grain alcohol (do not use 20% vinegar made from 99% acetic acid).

To chemically treat cool weather weeds, you can use a post emergent broad leaf weed killer as long as it is above 50 degrees F.  ie Roundup. 

Prune
Most deciduous trees and shrubs.

Evergreens with both scale and needle like leaves.

All dead and diseased branches and limbs.

Lower limbs to facilitate mowing and allow for passage down sidewalks.

Limbs or branches that are crossing Crowded center branches can also be removed to improve air flow.

Summer flowering trees to shape them.

Remember not to use pruning paint and not to make flush cuts.  Leave the branch collar.

(see Red Dirt Gardening article on "Pruning") 

Water
Check soils moisture levels.  The top of the soil maybe dry to the touch, so you might want to use a long screw driver or 10" nail to see if the under lying soil is still moist.  This can be done by sticking a screw driver or nail  down in the ground about 6 inches.  

If there has been no significant rain fall water all beds and turf.                                       

24 hours before a hard freeze.

Do not forget to feed and water the birds

The Original Red Dirt Gardener

Plant

Container grown shade trees and shrubs.  (see Red Dirt Gardening’s article on "Proper Tree Planting").

Transplant shrubs or vines that need moved.

Fertilize

Easy to pull henbit and clover that might emerge this month. 

Apply broad weed herbicide to well established cool and warm season lawns.

Prune

Evergreens to improve their appearance and natural shape. (see Red Dirt Gardening’s "Pruning Calendar for Home Owners").

Shade trees can can be pruned to improve their appearance. Do Not prune to "thin".  Selective pruning is recommended for removal of crossing branches and limbs to allow light to the under story plantings.  and to prevent weighted "crotches" from splitting in the ice and wind.

Remove dead limbs from shade trees.

Do not prune newly planted trees

Do not make flush cuts, top trees or pruning paints(see Red Dirt Gardening’s article on "Pruning" for proper techniques and tools).

While trees are in their dormant months remove any ground cover away from the root flare and trunks.  Remove dirt carefully using a stiff broom or water.

Remove any dead or diseased plantings from your beds.

Water

Continue to water once a month if soil is dry. 

Water 24 hours before a freeze.  This will help to prevent winter freeze and plant death.

Don’t Forget To Feed & Water The Birds

The Original Red Dirt Gardener

As the Oklahoma weather cools and winter approaches my yard and garden are dominated by the deep crimson of the Japanese maples and the firey reds of the dwarf Nadinas, who until now have been green.  Yellow and orange leaves of the trees now fall upon the yard as the deep greens and blues of the evergreens begin to become the dominate colors.

You would think in all this color and beauty, there would be a break in the Oklahoma garden chores …but NO!  Below are the “Original” Red Dirt Gardener’s tips for the month of November.

Plant

Continue planting spring flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, & hyacinths. I always cool my bulbs for 30 to 45 days prior to planting in December. (do not store bulbs in plastic bags or plastic containers as they might become diseased by the moisture).

Finish planting cool season spring flowering annuals  like pansies, kale, flowering cabbage, alyssum and Johnny jump ups.

Transplanting of woody plants can begin after the first frost.

Spring and summer flowering perennials like iris and day lilies.

Trees, shrubs and vines.

Fertilize

During the first week fertilize cool season turf.

Continue controlling broadleaf weeds in well established warm and cool season lawns with post emergent weed killer.  If you are opposed to chemicals as I am, manually remove the emerging weeds.

Put down 1/2” of compost if you have a poorly performing lawn.  the compost also servers as an excellent dressing in your beds.

Foliar feed all actively growing plants like evergreens with Garret juice. (see recommended organic products)

Prune

Remove (deadhead) all spent blooms and dead tips on annuals and perennials.

Trim away all dead and dying.

Selectively prune spindly growth.

Do major pruning from mid November through February.

Compost all debris except of what is diseased

Due to the numerous pine diseases in Oklahoma I recommend disposing of all pine needles and cones by removing them from your property.

Do not prune newly planted trees or shrubs.

Mulch

All bare ornamental beds for winter protection and help in preventing weeds in the spring.

DO NOT pile mulch up the trunk of trees as it will only cause the tree to become diseased. see “Red Dirt Gardening’s 5 Tips for Mulching Trees”

Continue mowing cool season lawns.

Save those leaves and branches to chipper shred and use for mulch in your beds.

Water

The Oklahoma wind still dries out our Oklahoma red dirt lawn and garden. Though we do not need to water as often, vegetation still needs water so water at least once a month if the soil is dry.

Water 24 hours before a freeze.  This will help to prevent winter freeze and plant death.

If You Have A Water Feature

Now is a good time to lay a screening material, anchored by stones over the pool portion of your Oklahoma water feature to keep out the debris. As soon as all the leaves have fallen and have been raked up, remove the screening material and store until next year.

November’s Last Weekend Chore 

As Oklahoma Red Dirt Gardening chores begin to slow down, I find that November is also a good time to clean up and winterize all my tools. This includes draining the fuel from my power equipment.  As well as cleaning and sharpening my tools. They are stored with a quick spray of lubricant on them to prevent rusting. 

Click here for tips on winterizing your sprinkler system in the OKC and surrounding areas. 

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Having finished a pleasant Oklahoma afternoon and early evening of working in my  garden and yard I decided to watch TV.  Have you ever noticed how many TV shows there are telling you how to increase the value of your home, make your home more desirable once placed on the market for sale? They advocate kitchen tear outs, master bath makeovers, and yes even just a fresh coat of paint.  All of this started me thinking about my neighborhood and the landscaping around my home. What is the real value of my investment and does it provide as much of a return as the various makeovers one can do inside their home?

Let me tell you, this Red Dirt Gardener lives in a neighborhood fortunate enough to have brick and stone structures at the entrances to our neighborhood which could provide a wonderful backdrop for carefully planted and cared for Oklahoma trees, shrubs and flowers.  As you drive through my neighborhood, you will find pockets of homes where the owners have invested varying amounts of time and money to their homes landscaping.  We have all heard how landscaping which has been tastefully done and maintained adds tremendous eye appeal to your home.  However, does this investment have the same effect on increasing your homes value just like a kitchen remodel does?

• A recent Gallup Organization poll indicated that new home buyers and buyers of previously owned homes believe that landscaping adds nearly 15 percent, on average, to a home’s value or selling price.
• Real estate appraisers however, rate the value of residential-property landscaping at 7.28 percent and commercial-property landscaping at 6 percent. • The April 2006 issue of Money magazine reported:  “Landscaping improvement has a recovery value of 100 percent to 200 percent if it is well done and harmonizes with nearby plantings. This compares to a recovery value of a kitchen overhaul of 75 percent to 125 percent;
a bathroom [renovation], 80 percent to 120 percent; a new deck or patio, 40 percent to 70 percent; and a swimming pool, 20 percent to 50 percent.”
• There is a direct correlation between the price paid for a home and the influence of landscaping in the buying decision. Buyers of higher-priced homes are more influenced by landscaping.

All of this said….now imagine the appeal of your neighborhood if you association were to tastefully landscape and maintain your entrances?  That would be what I would call a 2 times kicker!

Don’t forget to feed and put out water for the birds.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

Plant

Mums, pansies, kale, dianthus.

Cool season veggies like garlic, cabbage, beets, carrots, lettuce, turnips.

Container grown shade trees and pines. 

Seed cool season lawns. 

Dig and store any tender bulbs that you have. 

Fertilize

Fertilization of Bermuda lawns should have been completed mid September. Do no fertilize Bermuda until next spring.

Great time to begin controlling broad leaf weeds with a broadleaf pre emergent.

Broadcast dry molasses for any plants no looking well.

Prune

Tree limbs that are broken. Do not make flush cuts or use pruning paints.

Root-prune wisterias that have not bloomed. This should shock the plant and hopefully trigger bud set. Start by going out about two feet from the vine’s trunk with a sharp spade and go down about 12 inches all the way around the plane.

Dead head roses.

Dead head summer perennials.

Remove all diseased plant material.

Continue to mow and edge your Oklahoma lawn. 

Water

Less frequently and deep.

Set your sprinkler systems to their fall setting.(watch for article on How To Winterize Your Sprinkler System for Oklahoma Winters.)

Remember to feed and water the birds

"The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today.

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

August for Oklahoma lawns and gardens can easily be summed up with one word, WATER.

Plant

Divide and replant any spring blooming perennials.

Finish any last minute planting of fall vegetables in your Oklahoma Garden.

Mums and asters

Fall bulbs like amaryllis and crocus.

Fertilize

Bermuda lawns if adequate moisture is available

Young trees and shrubs

Foliar feed your Oklahoma Atlas and other evergreens with Garret Juice (see Amazon Links)

Struggling plants would also benefit from a soil drenching of Garret Juice (see Amazon Links)

Prune

Dead head declining flowering plants to clean up the  appearance of you Oklahoma flower bed, to encourage more blooming and to keep some of those ever multiplying flowers in one spot. 

Dead and damaged branches from shrubs and trees.  Do not do major pruning

Finish dead heading roses by mid month to help initiate winter hardiness

Water

All potted and hanging plants

Oklahoma lawns and gardens, unless it has been usually wet and rainy (ha-ha) this is the month you will have to water more than any other month.  Try to watering more deeply as I learned to do years ago. I like to put down an inch or so with each watering. If you do, you will water less often, save money and time, have fewer incidents of plant and turf stress between waterings and it will train the roots to go deeper into the ground. (note: soil types, weather patterns and plant recommendations will vary watering patterns and frequencies). see article on Saving Your Oklahoma Lawn While On Vacation

Do not forget to water the birds and have fun watching them!

“The Original" Red Dirt Gardener

Sharing my gardening interests with others is so enjoyable. Whether you play the Native American Flute, ride a Harley Davidson, collect vintage automobiles, quilt with friends and neighbors, show dogs, cattle or horses, play baseball, support little league,or work with wood consider SHARING YOUR PASSION WITH OTHERS! I recommend  Digital Seasons of Life for your very own affordable website.

They are an Oklahoma company that has been a joy to work with .  Digital Seasons of Life’s sites are simple for me to update with new articles and pictures and they are always there when I need them.  Share your passion and contact them today. 

Save $25 on site design and your first year of hosting for free ($100 value).

Use Coupon Code: RED DIRT TWO

Click the banner below for information

PRUNING YOUR OKLAHOMA CRAPEMYRTLE:

It is a very common misconception that pruning back Crapemyrtles in the winter increases the flower production the next year. This “hacking back” of the limbs actually creates less flower production because the plant tries to first make up the growth that has been cut away before setting new buds and flowers.

The practice of chopping of the top of the Crapemyrtle is all to common place . This type of pruning results in a not very attractive branching structure as seen below

(See Article “Crapemyrtle Murder in Oklahoma”)

Some people do excessive pruning because the plant is too large for the space it was planted in, still others see their neighbors doing it and feel they need to follow suit. Why? There are some instances in which heavy pruning is necessary, but light pruning is usually all that is needed. The type and amount of pruning depends on the desired shape and size of the plant.

1. Prune For An Ornamental Tree Look

To develop a tree shape, remove all limbs growing from ground level except the three to five strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower lateral branches one-third to halfway up the height of the plant. Also, remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk leaving a collar.

As tree growth continues remove the suckers or baby trees that start emerging at the base of the tree. These sprouts draw water and nutrients away from the main tree. You can pull these out  by hand if you catch them early enough, if not prune them back.

Each year while the Crapemyrtle is dormant (winter to early spring) you will want to continue the practice of corrective/selective pruning to remove defective or dead branches, to remove lateral branches, small twigs or branches in the center to create more open space for sun and air movement, as well as branches that are crossing/rubbing one another.

2. Prune To Control Height

To keep a crape myrtle at a manageable height, prune moderately by removing all twiggy growth back to main branch from which it emerged. This will give the plant a more uniform appearance. As mentioned earlier, the best way to maintain a Crapemyrtles size is to plant a known cultivar that will mature at the desired height.

3. Prune For A Shrub Look

To create the look and size of a small shrub, look for branches that are dry and unhealthy and remove them with pruning shears. Growth from the previous year that has grown to the width of a pencil should also be cut back so that only about 6 inches remains of each branch. (If you want a shrub then buy a variety that will stay small).

(Click here to select the right Crapemrytle for your Oklahoma lawn or garden)

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY STRESS:

Aphids and powdery mildew are the two most common problems we have in Oklahoma where Crapemyrtles are concerned. Though neither is too serious, both can cause your Crapemyrtle to have an unsightly appearance. If you go a bit south to Texas, you will also find that scale can be an issue. I hope that it does not cross the river.

The aphids and the powdery mildew are more an irritation than a serious problem. Both aphids and powdery mildew are generally brought about because of stress.

Powdery mildew, a fungus that attacks and distort the leaves is caused by a lack of circulation.  A lack of proper circulation can be caused by poor pruning techniques as well as the location in which you have planted the Crapemyrtle. This poorly selected location may not allow the leaves to dry out.  A couple of treatments of Plant Wash sprayed on the leaves will quickly get things back into check.

Prior to purchasing the Crapemyrtle, read the nursery tag attached to it carefully and look for varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew like ‘Acoma’ (white flowers), ‘Hopi’ (light pink), ‘Comanche’ (dark pink), ‘Zuni’ (lavender) and ‘Tonto’ (red) in the taller varieties. Compact Crapemyrtles, 3 to 6 feet tall, such as ‘Hope’ (white), ‘Ozark Spring’ (lavender) and ‘Victor’ (red) are also resistant to powdery mildew. Unfortunately, the compact Crapemyrtles are not resistant to powdery mildew.

HoneyDew:

The sticky drippings you often find on your Crapemyrtle is the waste or "honeydew" of small insects called aphids.

These pesky little creatures can be temporarily eliminated with a strong blast of water straight from the garden hose. They will however, come back unless the stress in the tree that brought them to the tree in the first place is not removed. 

Proper Planting Reduces Stress Which Will Hold Insects & Disease At Bay:

One of the reasons Crapemyrtle is so well suited to Oklahoma lawn and gardens is that it can be a low-maintenance plant. The best way to ensure this is to choose the cultivar that best suits your landscape needs before planting. Choosing the proper height of plant, its proximity to water and the amount of sunshine available will all help determine the Crapemyrtles impact on your lawns/beds appearance.

1. Pick The Proper Size Of Crapemyrtle

There are many cultivars of Crapemyrtle to chose from, not only different colors but different plant sizes. The dwarfs range from 2-3 feet up to 6 feet tall while the semi-dwarf tend to be 7 to 15 feet.   It is the great range in sizes that make it easy to choose the right size plant for a particular space. Severe pruning and topping is not the preferred method to ensure that a plant will fit into the desired space.  The preferred method is to buy the right plant to begin with by looking at its size when mature.

2. Dig An “Ugly” Hole And Leave The Root Flare Exposed

When digging your hole, be sure that it is an “ugly” hole with jagged sides.  Since one of the most common causes of stress in trees is being planted to deeply, make sure the tree is planted with the root flare exposed and visible above the ground as shown in the photo below.

Do not to plant your Crapemrytle like the ones in the 2 pictures below.

Though mulching up the truck of trees is commonly seen, it promotes insect infestation, disease, and weakens the tree.

3. Do Not Backfill Your Ugly Hole

Nothing should go into the planting hole except the soil that you dug out of the hole. Putting amendments or backfill soil in creates a  "bowl" effect in our Oklahoma clay. This situation makes it difficult to avoid having too much or too little water around the plant’s roots. Amendments should go on the surface of the soil around the tree, but not up the trunk of the tree.

4. Proper Watering and Sunlight

Stress in your Crapemyrtle can be caused by too much or too little water.  To prevent this, note whether the planting spot you have chosen is convenient to water.  If it is not, then watering turns into a chore and the plant will suffer.  If on the other hand, the Crapemyrtle has been planted in a bed with plants that need moist soil the Crapemyrtle will  become stressed. 

Crapemyrtles like full sun light and plenty of it.  Proper sunlight will produce not only a healthy appearance but it will also reduce the chances of powdery mildew and aphids. 

5. What Chemicals And Lawn Fertilizers Might Do

Stress can also be brought about by broadcasting excess fertilizer up to the Crapemyrtle as you fertilize your yard. Even broadcasting a weed and seed on your lawn can have a negative impact on your Crapemyrtle.

Soil compaction and soil contamination caused by herbicides and other toxic chemicals will also cause undue stress and make the Crapemyrtle susceptible to insects and disease.

Don’t forget to feed and water the birds!

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener 

Crapemyrtle is a beautiful ornamental tree which is almost perfectly engineered for Oklahoma lawns and gardens. Available in many different colors, heights and growth structures, Crapemyrtles in their truest form are a shrub.

Many varieties are available ranging in heights of 3 to 11 feet for the ornamental trees and 15 to 20 feet for other varieties.

Let’s not forget the Crapemyrtle dwarfs which can be 2 to 3 feet tall.

These colorful plants not only hold up to Oklahoma’s heat with showy flowers, but also the Oklahoma soil.  During Oklahoma winters, we learn to appreciate the Crapemyrtles artful structure, seed capsules and peeling bark.

PLACEMENT:

These guys love full sun and plenty of circulation.  When choosing your plant give careful consideration to the size of the plant when full grown.  Do not buy a ornamental tree when what you need is a 2 foot variety.  Pruning or topping is not a remedy for choosing the wrong size of plant.

FLOWERS AND FRUIT:

The flowers are lacy and showy, coming in a multitude of colors and shades of predominantly pinks and violets.  Whites and reds are also available. The seed capsules left at the ends of the branches by the flowers are great for attracting birds during the winter months.  I think the pods also add to the winter interest of the tree.

BARK:

The peeling bark is one of the treasures we are left with during the winter months. The bark is very smooth and ranges in color from pinkish to grayish. The bark is quite thin and exfoliates to expose smooth pale-colored branch underneath.

FOLIAGE:

Small, alternate, leaves that are rounded at the base, generally 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The leaves will change colors in fall before dropping.

Enjoy watching the birds?  Remember to give them water.

The “Original” Red Dirt Gardener